France and Frenchmans Bay page 2 of the April 6 diotaphone transcription near the middle of Cylinder 1, but a new subject. Frenchmans Bay is the la st considerable opening on the coast as one goes north which lies open freely to the ocean. up Beyond,all is one great bay pt which the tide rolls with sweeping force, that oulimnates in the Bay of Fundy, the name given by a Portuguese fisherman who came out upon the Banks to fish in the lattor half of the 16th century, moting there fishermon from Brittanyand from England -- a truly Cosmopolitan gathering. The Bay of Fundy is a corruption early of Baiou Fonda, the Deep Bay. The French called it Baie Francoise, but the Portuguose is the one that held, handed down from one generation of fishermen to and her, till it came fixed with all. For naval purposes Frenchmans Bay, a name which goes back to the early 17th century when the Fronch province of Acadia stretched down to the Penobsoot and Frenchmans Bay was the r endesvous for #rench vessels gathering for attack on the New England ooast or for shelter in attack. The pleasantest prexent and most fortile part of Nova Sootia , the best in soil east and exposure and the most free from fog, lies no nearly of Mount Desert from Island, though somewhat to the north. It is A well sheltered coast, relatively free from fog, page 3 April 6 and sheltered too, in case of war, from the attack of enemies from overseas. The famous Fishing Banks represent an ancient coast line, that of its Continental Sholf beyond which the ocean bottom descends rapidly into oceanic depths. This ancient coast line extends far out northward and eastward from Nova Scotia and from the fossil evidence must have once been, in far off timed, the fertile and well-protected home or a rich, almost sub-tropical flora, extending the- with 11 ttle change as far, quite certainly, as the Potomac. Nova Sootia itself extends southwart to meet Geroges Bank, ascending from the Cape Cod repion, the waters of a great river draining once the Gulf of Maine and carrying to the sea through a deep out north of Georges Bank the drainage from a great forested valley; 14 but is sunk now beneath now the ocean but was once a great plain, dwelt in, the evidence show s, by browsing horse', feeding on leaves of deciduous trees and broad-footed to boar them up in low-lying, marshy ground. The moustains of Mount Desert ALL of ignoous origin once united in a vast diko of granite whose great crystals geologic sense show long oooling, even in the under a super incumbent mass thousands of feet in t hickness as the of cooling tells, which long donudation of the region has left because of its superior hardness, standing above the sea which a has engulfed the rest. Later and relatively recantly, vast ice sheet formed in the Labrador and Katahdin regions and page 4, April 6 moved slowly southward, a.. solid, dividing the ancient granite mass into separate isolated peaks, the Island's though present mountain chain. It is a great history, **** but dimly apprehended, That it covers the whole development of life on land, vegetable and animal aliko with we clearly know from he rare evidence left behind. And that of life upon land goes further ages back to life within the sea, which recoded andwas the source of all its varied life on land, plant and animal. Compass Harbor, to return to that, is the only Bay/ I know unon the Island, though there may be others, bottomed with quartz sand, the delightful to see and for children to play upon, that comes from the coast southward Orden's Point, the point from which bounded on the northern side to the vicinity of Schooner head, is the most ancient on the Islnad, built up of hard old rock, and except at Caompass Harbor is cliffed and bold, leaving no opportunity for sand to gather. Compass Harbor got its name from t he early settlers from the shores of Massachusetts Bay,tt - settlers who did nt como direct from overseas at the end of the Acediannperiod, who named it from its plaeting opening due north toward toward the Gouldshoro Hills, which give that whole section of the coast its unrivalled beauty, It makes excent! ma1ly good mooring ground, where I kept my boat, The Wrong Dorrs Boat, the Wren page 5, April 6 Cy1 3 built for me by the elder Burgess, Edward Burgess, who safely built some of the earlyoup defenders, for eighteen nearly years though a great midsummer storm once wrecked it as it strained upon the hook of inch thi ck iron by which it was moored, till, when the S torm was over I found it had just hold by chance, being all but straightened ant. Onnosite Compass Harbor and the Oldfarm shore lies, a mile away but nearer, seemingly, the bold, rounded mass of Bald Porcupine, a tax dense MASS of ancient lava rock poured out from same bonch or crack probably in the earth's surface, on top of its more anoient Cambrian rook which one may see lying in strata beneath the lava at the eastern its foot of the great cl'ff, the sea gulls' nesting place. This island now belongs to my friend and neighbor, on northern that Ogden Point, which forms the eastern bound of the Harbor as it does the southern bound of Cromwell's Harbor, a superb sitro, but limited practically to the single house site. Mrs Browning bDught the island because I told her of what Congressman Crampton, who once stayed with me at Oldfarm with his wife, on their way back fromCanada, told me KX that unless we secured that island which we were then looking at from my Oldfarm winde- porch, we would wake uo some day and find it covered with huge advertisement so conspicuous an opportunity * first It ine cyl 3 page 6, April 6 for them were its cliffed faces, west and south, past which all boats went by. So, when I had done, I thought, my share I invited Mrs Browning to purchase it for our joint protection, which she, repeating to her son, he bought it for her and incidentally for mo as well. But there is nothing to be done with it but to hold it nd she would gladly give it to the Park, I know, should tt be desired. The Old farm property is one of the best and most fertile pieces of farmland on the Island, long cultivated when which he did for my father purchased it in the summer of 1868, the first spent here and a dozen years before we built the Oldfarm house. one of the It was an early farm grant, the earliest on the island, dattnex stretching back with straight parallel sides onto the no thern front of the mountain once called Noport for no known reason and now by its Government renemings: Champlain. that further is now part of Acadia National Park, given to it by me, when the Park was formed. The Mount Desert Nurseries occupies the central portion which was-- constituted the 'Cousena' country farm and our Oldfarm house overlooking the Bay, rises, built of red-tinged granite from the Gorgo, rises from one of the most beautiful house sites I know upon all the coast, taken in can junction with the beauty of the shore and gardens. File Until the establishment of Acadia National Park on the coast of Maine the National Park System was without contact with the sea. Such contact upon an islanded and mountainous coast is one of Nature's great experiences; that allwwho could might share in it was the purpose of this first eastern park's creation. The gathering of the lands that make it, held since colonial times in private ownership, commenced twenty-one years ago this summer, the United States owning nothing then but lighthouses along the coast. Formed originally by gift, it is growing still by further gifts. Mount Desert Island, within whose sea-girt bounds the Park has been till recently confined, is the largest rock-built island off our Atlantic shore and owes its existence to a vast dike of granite upheaved, molten, with terrific force into now vanished strata of ancient coastal deposition whose erosion thr ough countless centuries has left the granite standing out to form a singularly bold range of wind-swept peaks, fronting the sea, which forms the dominant landscape feature of the Park. A steel and conorete drawbridge -- a world war memorial connects the Island at the Narrows with the State highway system, a concrete road leading from it to Ellsworth, the County seat, placed midway to Bangor at the head of tidal waters on the Penobscot River. 2. One of the important features of the Park from the motorist's point of view is its easy and beautiful approach from the great motoring centers of Boston and Portland, from the another is White Mountains or Quebec; and/the picturesque, historio terri- tory that lies beyond it in the Canadian provinces of New Brunswick Nova Scotia, and Cape Breton. From New York east, the New England coast leads on to it with splendid ocean-skirting roads and famous stopping places on the way. Creating an objective worthy of that approach the United States is now building in the Park, under charge of the Federal Roads Bureau, a magnificent motor road to the summit of Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on our Atlantic coast where from an elevation of over fifteen hundred feet one looks out over "ocean's vast expanse" to the far horizon where it vanishes to sight. Acadia National Park is the only National Park in the United States title to whose deeds goes back to colonial days and royal governments of France and England. The first owner in private right of Mount Dosert Island was a soldier and hardy adventurer of old family in France whose name automobiles have carried round the earth, Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, the founder of Detroit. To him the Island, together with two square leagues upon the opposite mainland, was granted in ancient feudal fashion by the Provinco of Quebec and confirmed to him by the King of France, Louis XIV. 3. Occasionally one comes in the chain of title by which the United States now holds these lands upon deeds that bear the signature of Cadillac's granddaughter, Marie de Cadillac as she signs herself, to whom and to her husband, coming to these shores shortly after the American Revolution, the General Court of Massachusetts in gratitude to France for her help in the war confirmed the ancient title so far as regards the eastern portion of the Island, that fronting on Frenchman's Bay where Bar Harbor is today and the national park office. It was in the Commission given to another nobleman of France, the Sieur de Monts -- Lord of Mountains -- in December, 1603, by France's great warrior king, Henry IV, to establish the French dominion in America that the name Acadia first appears, and the King there speaks of it as familiar to him from the accounts of traders and fishermen returning from its shores. It then and for a century after- ward included eastern Maine, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Cape Breton, a noble heritage taken in conjunction with the River of Cariada -- the St. Lawrence and its banks - the Great Lakes and the valley of the Mississippi, which the enterprise of France's hardy mariners and explorers and the devotion of her priests had won and which the ambition of her monarchs lost on European battlefields. 4. The last hundred years mark man's conquest of distance. century ago, sailing craft, moved by uncertain winds, was still the best means to reach Mount Desert Island or its region. Now, with a high-powered car one can come easily from Boston in a single day, or leisurely in two, spending the night at any one of a number of famous points:along the way and keeping, if one will, within sight of the sea the whole way, or passing inland to the State capital, Augusta, at the head of the long tidal estuary of the Kennebec, All routes are beautiful and the roads are good. Resort to Mount Desert Island has been always from the country over, not local nor mainly from New England. In the days following the Civil War many came from the Confederate states, from Virginia and Pennsylvania and Washington. Now they come by motor car from every state east of the great divide, seeking the cool New England coast from all the hot interior, And in these visitors to the Park one sees how the automobile is welding the nation into a single whole, educating by contact, one section with another, and broadening all horizons. Unlike the great western parks formed from the public domain 1n/wild and solitary places, Acadia National Park is placed among old And long-established resort communities which furnish the visitors to the Park through private enterprise, controlled by competition, with what is provided by concessioners in other parks. Such enterprise is quick to respond to the demand and all who come can count on being well provided, simply or ex- pensively as their desire may be. Note This appears 4h the Histricol'Associa "achilein SMP The Sieur do Monts National Monument on the coast of Maino is the only national park, other than battle-cite momorial, in the eastern portion of our country It was formed by the gift of oitizens and accepted by the President for its historic interests no less than for its unique and striking coastal landscape. Its deeply divided range of granite mountains, bare-topped with darkly nooded bases, was the first feature noted by Champlain In his exploration of our coast, made - in September, 1604 - from Do Monta! first colony at the mouth of the present Saint Croix River - named for it - in the founding of Acadims and Mount Desert Island, the 'island of the wild and solitary mountains! was the first land he touched within the present bounds of the United States. Tine years later, 1. 1613, the Island became the ahosen cite of the first French missionary oolony planted on the American Con- tinent, settlement being made at the entrance to Somes Sound, at the mountains' southern foot. whis settlement, whose story is told at considerable length in the Jesuit Narratives by Father Biard, one of the leaders of the ex- pedition, was named by them, as the Log-oloud they arrived in lifted, disclosing the poaceful beauty of the soenes Saint Bauveur - in gratitude, as it is stated, for the Divine guidance which had load them across a dangerous and unchartered sea to a spot so fair. It was the later wreaking of this settlement, together with a succeeding attack upon the opposite Nova Sootian shore, by an armed vessel from Virginia unded by Samuel Argall, that commenced, according to Parkman, the century and a half of warfare between the French and English for the control of North America; and for & century of this, until the Peace of Utrecht in 1713, the broad, land-locked bay that bounds Mount Desert Island on the eastern side and is still known as Frenchman's Bay was the recognised gathering-place of vessels for naval expeditions by the French against the English and rendez- TOUS for their return. Two generations later Mount Desert Island was deeded in foudal fashion by Louis XIV to Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, soldier of anoient family in France then serving in Acadia and later to become the founder of Detroit and Governor of Louisiana. He is recorded as living on the island with his wife in 1688, on the shore of Frenchman's Bay, in a memorandum drawn up in that year by Sir Edmind Andros for the English government, wi th reference to a descent on the Acadian coast. Ceded to England with the rest of Acadia save Cape Breton by the Peace of Utreaht, the Island ultimately passed into the possession of Massachusetts, which while yet a province gave it to its last Colonial Governor, Sir Franois Bernard, in reward for 2 securing to It that portion of Acadia which now forms part of Maine, against the rival claims of Nova Sootia; and after confiscation of his property in the Revolution, returned its western half to his son, John Bernard, and gave its eastern half to the granddaughter of Cadillao and her husband, Monsieur and Madame do Gregoire B French refugees, who came out to America bringing letters from Iafayette - who thereupon came down and lived, and died, on it, becoming citizens of the United States. From these two gifts of lassachusetts, both proceeding from earlier ones by the Crowns of France and England, it is that the titles to the land the government now holds, to both the eastward and the westward of Somes Sound, proceed. with these and other old historical associations linking the new Park with France, and with its own broad outlook over the seas toward her, it is planned to make it serve a unique funotion among our national parks, and embody in its lands and mountains an enduring memory of France's old relation to the land and of our friend- ship and alliance, past and present, with her. In accordance with this plan, warmly supported by the present Secretary of the Interior, the Hon. Franklin K. Lane, Senator Halo of Maina has introduced & bill, already passed by the Senate and favorably acted on by the Public Lands Committee of the House, to change the Siew de Monts National Monument, proclaimed by the President two years ago, into 3 a mattonal park under the name of the Iafayette National Park, chosen to express the breadth and inclusiveness of the commemorative inten- tion. And the United States Geographic Commission, whose practice is habitually most conservative, has revised in harmony with this plan the names of certain of the mountains in the Park and given them others related to the Island's early history - Champlain, Cadillac, Aoadin, and Do Monta are all recorded 1m this NV, while the mountain near whose foot the early Jequit settlement was made, has been named in memory of it Saint Sanvour Mountain. The site of this missionary settlement, still known as Jesuit Field locally, is a broad grassland sloping gently to the sea at the entrance to Somes Sound and looking, it would seem, not greatly different from what it did when the Jesuits and their colonists game sailing in. A fine harbor, noted as such by Governor Bernard in his still extant account, lies in front of it, sholtered by lessor islands, and the mountains make its background. There are few spots in the world of greater beauty in its northern type, and few - apart from of ties - more certain to be widely visited in years to some. Nor could my be more fitly ohosen to commemorate in a national way these early missionaries, the story of whose steadfastness and de- votion forms SO striking a chapter in that of the early French occupation of this Continent. In commemorating, accordingly, other features of the Island's early history, those who have the development of this first eastern rightly done competitivity invite the Cardinal in thin got to of the Catholio Church to to point Attoo of laymen from its ranic to cooperate with R establishing on the cite described, on Land now nation MT owned and at the oro ing point of beauty on our coast, and, appropriate memorial, L harmony with other of tentorio charaoter intended 1. tho Fork, and L Ath its Landscape notting. Before formally extending this invitation, as is done, Centrance that such a atep would be consonant with Kar views and wishes has been infor 11y obtained, And Ru menoo has expressed in a personal interview his WAYM interest in the.plan. 5 not e In the Lafayette National Park Maine possesses the unique distinction of having the first National Park created by Congress to the eastward of the Rooky Mountains, and the first accessible without a distant journey to the great city populations of the eastern states. In it, it possesses the on National Park, east or west, that borders on the ocean and adds its interest and refreshment to those of its land area; and in it also, it possesses the only National Park with historical associations going back to the first settlement of America or the establishment of the United States. What the Lafayette National Park has to offer is unique in other ways. It is the only National Park that exhibits the summer beauty of the Appalachian forest or the glory of its autumnal follage; it is the only one that forms a sanotuary for eastern wild flowers or for eastern birds; and it is the only one that offers to its visitors the opportunity of sailing upon coastal waters and the sport of deep BGQ fishing. Maine has & wonderful coast, formed by the sinking of an old land area worn by streams, and its invasion by the sea, which has transformed its valley into ocean bays and estuaries and its hills into island; and the oulminating point of this coast in & scenio sense lies at Mount Desert where the Lafayette National Park has boen oreated. 2- Grandour depends far more on form and character than on extent, and the range of the Mount Desert Hills, though rising only to heights of from one thousand to fifteen hundred feet above the sea in which its feet are set, is built of anoient granite, deeply ice-eroded, and is given treble value by the vast, blue ocean plain on which it looks. From earliest time the two elements in nature, woods and flowing springo apart, that have gathered about themselves romance and poetry and made appear to the imagination have been the sea and mountains, and it is the combination at Mount Debert of sea and mountain, unique on our Atlantic coast, which now gives this first of eastern National Parks its singular. The land area of the park, the sea apart, however, has remarkable variety and interest. Occupying at the present time about ten thousand aores, it stretches across the Island from east to west, containing in a continuous ohain & dozen mountain peaks, separated by deep ravines and passes. It oon- tains, also, lying among the mountsins, a number of beautiful fresh-water lakes, and one magnificent fiord, Somes Sound. It contains portions of the now rare primeval forest, with broad stretches of younger woodlands, the haunt of birds and deer, and contains, trodden by the feet of generations, soores of miles of osirn-marked mountain trails and woodland paths that are capable of superb extension in the National Park service hands. But, for the multitudes who will need 3- and BOOK the refreshment of this pork in years to come, the greatest opportunity perhaps it offers lies in the nationally owned and island-sjeltered waters that surround it on all sides but one, facing the open ocean, and stretch away through deep and narrow waterways and land-looked reaches of the sea to Castine and other points of interest on Penobscot Bay, or past them up the flooded river-valley Champlain explored and found BO beautiful in 1604, to the head of navigation at Bangor For these waters - owned and controlled by the National Government in complete possession - form in themselves a wonderful water-park, hundreds of square miles in extent, which the National Park Service plans to use in connection with its land are, as the development of the park progresses, by means of EL house-boat system of simple, inexpensive charaoter which will enable people coming from the heat and confinement of city life in summer to get the 0001 refresh- mont of a northern sea in surroundings of extraordinary beauty, moving at will from mooring ground to mooring ground and rowing, fishing, small-boat ssiling, or oanoeing as they go, with statione for mail service and supplies along the way. Though the Lafa yette National Park itself is a new creation, the President signing the bill creating it on the 26th of February, 1919, after first accepting, two years and a half before, its area for a national monument - the Sieur de Monts - it has & long history back of it in that of Mount Desert Island, of which it occusies the principal soonio part and from whose beauty it has sprung. Mount Desert Island was discovered on September 5, 1604, by Champlain, who had come out with the Siour do Monts, a Huguanot nobleman and soldier to whom Henry IV of France, its great warrior king, had given vice-royal powers to occupy for France and colonize "le paya et territoire de l'Acadie" - "the lands and territory of Aoadia" a name of Indian origin apparently which appears for the first time in Do Monts' commission. De Monta, with Champlain's aid, selected as the site for their first colony - named by them Sainote Croix - an island in the mouth of the present St. Croix Rivor- which led to its being adopted when the boundary was finally established botween the United States and Canada as the starting point for that boundary. While De Monts was superintending the con- struction of buildings for tho colony and making ready for the coming winter, he sent Champlain westward to explore the coast. Champlain, after waiting for a few days in the neighborhood of St. Croix for fog to lift, sailed in one long day's sail to Frenchmen's Bay, and came to rest - after nearly wrecking his 1steen-sailed, open boat upon & rook that was awash + in a 'good harbor' on the Mount Desert shore, to the eastward of Bar Harbor probably. Later, having exlored the upper bay and asoertained the land to ba an island, he passed around its seaward front and mude friends with Indians the smoke of whose fire he saw issuing from a cave at 5 - the mountain's foot, and guided by them sailed up the Penobsoot river, which he called the Norumbegue, to the head of tidal waters. This is the first mention on record of Mount Desert Island. Chemplain, impressed by the wild and rugged oharao- ter of the bare-topped mountains, olothed bolow in dark ever- groens to the water's edge or to the fringing oliffs, named it the 'Isle des Monts deserts'- the 'Island of the Wild and Lonely Hills, according to the French moaning at that time of the word "dosert." The English, lster, named the Island Mount Mansell, in honor to Sir Robert Mansell, vice- admiral of the Ohannel Fleet and member of the New England Council, but Champlain's name prevailed and has come down to us with this trace of its French origin that the accent, looslly and properly, is thrown on the last syllable, Mount Desert, as the Maesachusetts fishermen and traders caught it from the French. In 1613, Honry IV having been assassinated and Do Monts - his influence lost at Court - having withdrawn from his enterprise, the French Jesuits sent out 9. miscionary expedition to the Indians, the first in EL great series, which after various vioissitudes arrived in Frenohman's Bay, where landing was mede and mass celebrated on the Mount Desert shore, the Jesuits naming their colony Saint Sauveur, in gratitude to the Divine Guidance that had led them in safety, over 8- a dangerous and uncharted sea, to 80 fair a spot. Persuaded, however, by Indians who had an encampment at the entrance to Somes Sound, whose site at Manchester's point a deep shell mound still identifies, they placed their colony opposite on beautiful aloping meadow looking seaward which is still known as Jesuits' Field. Later that same year, this colony was wrecked by an armed vessel from Virginia, oommended by Samuel Argull, whose attack - made without warning and in a time of peace - was the first aot of overt warfare in the long contest between the French and English for the control of North America. In 1688 Mount Desert Island again appears, as granted - first by the Province of Quebec and then by Louis XIV in a dded, countersigned by Colbert, that still remsins on record, - to Antoine do la Mothe Cadillao, & soldier of Acadia of noble family, who is listed also by Sir Edmund Andros, governor of New England, &B then living, with his wife, upon its eastern shore, on 'Winskenge, or Frenohman's Bay. Cadillao later, .svinm gone to Canada, become the founder of Detroit, but still at that time signed himself in his deeds, "Seigneur of Monts Deserts." In. 1713 at the Peace of Utrecht, Louis XIV, defeated on the continent of Europe, ceded Aoadia - with the exception of Cape Breton - to the English, and with it Mount Desert Island. In 1759, after further wars, Quebec fell, 7om and with its fall the last French possessions in America - Louisiana apart - passed permanently to the English. It was not t111 then, when peace brought security, that settlement from Mascaohusetts along the eastern coast of Maine began, but from that period the present settlement of Mount Desert Island may be datod. Shortly after, in February, 1762, the General Court of Massachusetts gave the Island of Mount Desert, ignoring Cadillao's early claim, to Governor Franois Bernard, the last colonial governor of Massachusetts, as a regard for "extraordinary services." And in September of that year, he came down to inspect his new possession in 'the sloop Massachusetts, starting from where she lay 'off Castle William in Boston Bay's and kept a Journal of his. trip which may still be road in manusoript in Harvard College Library. Governor Bernard arrived on Ootober 2, 1762, entering, to quote his own words, "a spoaious bay formed by land of the great island on the left and the Cranberry I8- lands on the right. Toward the and of this, which we oal1 Groat Harbor, we turned into a emaller bay called the Southwest Harbor. On the north side of it is a narrow entrance to a river or sound which runs into the island eight miles, and is visible for nearly the whole length. We anohored about tho middle of the Southwest Harbor." 8- Governor Bernard stayed for several days, noting the abundant game birds, the "artificialness" of a beaver's dam, the fine salt marhaes, and the rooks "perpendicular to a great height" upon Somes Sound. He surveyed the Great Harbor, too, and laid out the town of Southwest Harbor with house lote for settlers of four aores each, and 'out lots' free, under a plan calculated for trude and business, for which the situation, boing in the direct course of all the vessels ooasting along the shore and the great plenty of fish, which will afford a staple commodity, make it very suitable." Governor Bernard's plans were good and Southwest Harbor has beena port of oall and a great fishing port for generations, but when the Revolutionary period came he took the English side, his real estate was confiscated, and Mount Desert Island again became the property of Massachusetts, In 1784, Governor Bernard's son, John Bernard, calling himself a citizen of Bath in the Province of Maine, sent a petition to the General Court of Massachusetts, asking to have restored to him his father's possesaf on in the Island, bequeathed to him in his father's will, claiming to have been loyal to the commonwealth; and the request was granted to the extent of giving him an undivided one half interest. 9. Two years later, another petition was presented to the General Court, this time by the granddaughter of Cadillao and her husband, Monsieur and Madame de Gregoire, who brought letters in support from Lafayette and asked that Cadillao's anoient ownership of Mount Desert Island be con- firmed to them; and the Oommonwealth of Massachusetts, honoring the request on grounds explicitly set forth of. national regard and friendship, gave them the other undivided half. In 1794, the Do Gregoires' "Part or moiety of the Island called "Mount Desert" was set off by the Maesachusetts Supreme Court from that granted to John Bernard, the eastern half - containing now Bar Harbor, Seal Harbor, and Northeast Harbor - being given the De Gregoires, who there- upon came d wn and settled at Hull's Cove, on Frenchman's Bay and died there, selling their lands to settlers; and. the western half; containing Southwest Harbor and Bass Harbor, was given to John Bernard, who soon, however, parted with his interest and returned to England, ultimately becoming Governor of the Barbadoos and St. Vincent, where he died. All titles to lands upon Mount Dosert Island, except for a few early settlers' rights, go back to the ownerships established by these two grants, made by the Commonwealth of Massachueetts but finding their origin in earlier grants, linked with a wealth of early history, it is that the title of the United States to the lands now forming the Lafayette National Park is derived. 10. In view of the interest of these old associations, and their national character, the United States Geographic Board upon the Park's establishment re-named a number of the "Monts Deserts" - which separately had no early French or English names - to make them hereafter, represented on the Government maps and charts, tell all who pass, by land or sea, xomowhat of the Island's early history and the men associated with it. Memories of Champlain, Cadillac, Bernard, Mansell,Acadia, and Saint Sauveur are now, as it were, em- bodied in this noble monument - a landmark from the sea already in John Winthrop's time, who records in his journal passing it on his way to Salem in 1630. De Monts, the founder of Acadia, a singularly gallant and arresting figure as he appears in Champlain's and other old accounts, is commemorated not by & mountain but. by a flowing spring, generous and constant in its gift of water, and by the beautiful old woods about it, near Bar Harbor. The Park itself - creuted during the war's course when so many of the nation's youth were laying down their lives in France, the anoient owner of these lands - was named for Lafayette, since his spirit was their spirit and his name stood asno other for the friendship between the nations, and the willingness to adventure life itself, 'beyond the seas', for human right and freedom. *** Lafayette National Park, created by Act of Congress during the war, lies in the old French province of Acadia on the deeply embayed and many-harbored aoast of Eastern Maine. Mount Desert Island - 1' Isle des Monts deserts - whose superb, ocean-fronting grani to heights it occupies, was discovered and named by Champlain in September, 1604, when the deoiduous trees among the charaoteris- tic pines and hemlooks of the Acadian coast were turning to red and gold. Then, all to the south as far as Florida was wild and forested to the water's edge, inhabited by the nativo Indians only. To France belongs the honor of the first colonization of America to the north of the Spanish. It was an undertaking broadly and nobly conceived by France's greatest king, Henry IV - Henry of Navarre - warrior and S tatesman. His lieutenant in this enterprise was a soldier of anoient family in southwestern France. Pierre du Guast, Sieur do Monts, who, with his father, had followed him through the Religious Wars and whom - greatly trusting, Champlain tells us - he had appointed governor of the ancient city of Pons in Saintonge, a city of refuge for the Huguenots. 9 Reach, Isle au Hault, Catino and others. Outside, one passes into a world-famous fishing ground extending to Gorges Bank formed by glacial deposits on the ancient continental shelf, and thenco to New Foundland. Hardy fishermen from the coast OI France haunted these waters in numbers as early as the middle of the sixteenth century, making a perilous voyage in quest of Lenten Cod. The breath of adventure hangs over them, and none naa expresse d this better than Champlain in his dedication to the Queen mother in 1613 of his book telling OI Do Monts and his Aaadian ventures: "Among all most excellent and useIul arts, that OI navigating has always seemed to me to hold first place. For 80 much the more that it is hazardous, and accompanied by a thousand wrecks and perils, so much the more is it estoomed beyond others, boing in no way suited to those who lack courage or self-confidence. This art it is that from my earliest youth has drawn me to itself, and led me TO expose myself during nearly my whole life to the impetuous waves of the ocean." if r Dictaphone - February 6, 1940. Mount Desert Island, the shores and islands round about it to Penobscot Bay and River, were settled mainly by people from Cape Cod who as soon as the wars with the French were over, sailed down in their schooners and other craft, exploring at first as did Somes and Richard- son whom Governor Bernard found establishing themselves by the two water powers at the head of the Sound and the four settlers whom he at the same time discovered on the Cranberry Islands opposite its mouth where they had no water power indeed but excellent harborage. It was all very simple; the sea gave them their livelihood at Cape Cod, they had their boats and, taking their opportunity, they could sail down eastward to the wooded and harbored shores left vacant by the French and settle there if they found their opportunity good. Lumber and salt fish were their exports and means of livelihood and they had their boats. They were a hardy people, forthright, honest and used to little. It was the descendants of these folk that Mr. Tracy found there ninety-odd years later, or friends who had sailed down and joined them. It was all as much a part of Massachusetts so far as the coastal region went as Cape Cod itself. And they brought along with them, changing little, their religion and schooling and their ways of life. The rest of Acadia, where the British would let them, remained largely French after the fall of Quebec and Cape Breton. The French Acadians who remained after the wholesale deportations to Louisiana, where they carried their customs and their language with them and still form today a distinct, important element in the State, still do so along the shores of New Brunswick, Cape Breton and elsewhere in the old French province. Their tongue is still the old-time French of the Acadian province, founded by De Monts, and I have a great regard for them as I have seen them at Bar Harbor where many of them came down to work when new homes were building for summer-folk and work was a-plenty. Her husband is pure French, descended from the early Acadian settler stock, but she herself who bore in her maiden years with other of her kin the delightful name of d'Aigle, or, lessbeautifully, Daigle, which being translated to the vernacular would mean 'one from the eagle. I So far so good, but her d'Aigle stock is mingled in the person of my housekeeper's grandmother with Irish blood, and the tale of this interesting. There was famine, bitter famine, throughout Ireland a hundred or so years ago and the English government of that day, seeking to prevent starvation, arranged with captains of vessels coming out to the New Brunswick shore to take out children and leave (February 6J 1940) 38 them there. And so it was my housekeeper's grandmother, a child of twelve, was brought out with her younger sister of nine in her charge, and they both were landed on the New Brunswick shore with a kindly farmer and his wife who, well-to-do, nobly accepted the burden and brought them up. The children, when they were taken up to the farmhouse to be left, spolee English only; the farmer and his wife spoke only French. But someone was found in the neighboring village who could interpret, and with plenty of good whole- some food to eat they soon caught on. Her grandmother remembered nothing of her family name nor did she know whence they sailed, but she could see, as in a picture, her mother weeping with a third babe in her arms as they came to fetch away the older ones, never to be seen again. And the father, too, stood by in distress but, whether the choice was given them or not, the crops had failed them and the children had to go. It was, as it were, a a flashlight on one single scene telling the story of a famine and the welcome strangers of another race and speech gave the two little children, the older caring for the younger in strange maternal charge. Another story told me by my housekeeper, come down from her grandmother, was of a little boy not above 3 years old brought out similarly by the captain of a New Brunswick-St.Lawre sailing vessel and deposited, alone, upon the shore, nce not far from where she and her sister had themselves been brought. The captain of the vessel took him himself on shore and, lifting him up upon the bank, pointed 4. (February 6, 1940) out to him the farmer's house nearby and told him to go up there and he would be cared for. Then the captain returned to his vessel and sailed awaw. The child made its way, crying, across the field to the farmhouse and the farmer's wife, seeing him, came down to meet him and took up with her to the house. But he, too, could speak no French nor could they speak English; BAX someone was found who could, but there was little he could tell. They adopted him and made him one of them, their youngest child. There was plenty of land for the clearing and the older children as they grew up went off and made their own nearby homes and the little boy, the youngest of them all, remained to inherit the house and home where he had been received 80 kindly and lived, respected, to an old age. Things like that give one a respect for the people among whom they are done. In neither case had any arrangement been made by the English Government or anyone for these children's reception, nor was any payment made or sought. It was out of the kind- ness of the heart that it was done. Memories. Another striking story of a deathbed soene was one told my mother and myself by a Frenohman of dis- tinotion, one of the leaders of the Hugenot ohuroh in France, who had come out on a special mission to raise funds for their oburch in France. He brought letters from some of the leading men in France and one of them was to my mother, for it was after my father had died. My mother invited him to come and dine with us, quietly and alone, and we had a strangely interesting talk with him which I have remembered always. One story that he told was of his father, a Hugenot of the old stamp, of ereot and stately bearing whom they all looked up to and obeyed. He lived to a great age but during the last few years of his life he lost the old stately habit, finally he fell ill and the family gathered around his bed. They thought that he had passed away but presently life returned and looking at this son, his oldest, he said to him, "Give me my olothes"! Now in talking with this son some years before he had spoken of death and said it was like going on a journey; one took what was fitting the place wither one was bound, and the son remembered it. Accustomed always to obey implicitly, they helped their father rise up and olothe himself, when drawing himself up to his full stately height and looking at this Memories -2 son he said, "Mon fils, de vais en voyage"!--My son I go upon a journey- and fell dead. He told me also of a strange experieme that he had once had, climbing in Switzerland, of being overtaken, while he waited for oomrades to join hid, high on a oliffed mountainside, by what is termed the paralysis of the snow,when finally his life seemed to go out of him, leaving the body, though ever acutely conscious, and being finally brought back to life through the arrival of his oomrades. Besides Governor Bernard's journal, the Bernard papers in the Harvard College Library contain a description of Mount Desert at the time of the governor's visit. It is written in Latin and ascribed to "an officer of the Cygnot," doubtless a naval officer in the governor's suite. The translation runs as follows:- "Mount Desert is a largo mountainous island lying 10 loagues west from the Island of Grand Mannan in the mouth of the Bay of Funday, it is in the Lattitude 44, 85 North, and Longitude 67, 20 West. It appears as the Continent from the Sea, but is divided from it by an arm running between it and the Main, but at low water may be crossed by a narrow nook near the West end as the Inhabitants report. Its natural Productions are Oak, Beech, Maple, and all sots of Spruce and Pinos to a large Dimention, vis: 34 inohes diamoter. Ash, Poplar, birch of all sorts, white Oodar of a large Sise, Sasafraes, and many other sorts of wood, we know no name vory for a/groat variety of Shrubbs, among which 1s the Filbert. Fruits, such as Rasberrya, Strawberrys, Cranborrys of two Sorts, Gooseberry and Currants. It han all soba of so11, such as dry, wet, rich, pood and barrons with great Quantitys of Marsh, a number of Ponds, with runs fit for mills. Quantitya of Marble, and its gonorall thought from the appearance of many Parts of the Land there are Iron and Copper Ore. Its Inhabitants of the Bruto Creation are Moose, Deer, Bear, fox, Wolf, otter, Beaver, martins, Wild Cat, and many other Animals of the fur kind, all kind of wild fowl, Hares, Partridges brown and black. But the most valuable part of this Island is the extraordinary fine Harbour in it, which is formed by the Islands as described on the annext Sketah of it. Codfish is over taken in any Quantitys with very convenient Beaches for drying and ouring them. Shellfish of all sorts except the oyster, none of which we saw, fine Prawns and Shrimps. Therenlies from it a rook above Water, about 8 Leagues from the foot of the great Islands, and 5 Leagues from the Duok Islands, which is the nearest Land to it; this rock is dangerous from its being deep Water both within and without it, so that sounding 18 no warning, you will have 40, 45, and 50 fathom within half a mile of it, it is steep to all sides except to the East Point of it, where it runs off foul about Pistol Shot, but dries at low water; the Tide near this rook setts strong in and out of the Bay of Funday, its to be seen about 3 Leagues, and appears white from being always covered with gannetta which breed and roost there. Its length 1s 500 fathoma from the N. E. Point to the 8. W. Point, and by/observation we took on it, in in the Lattitude 44, 08 X. I shall say no more than that & good look is necessary, and without you strike atself, there is little or no danger of being bery near it, and the might 18 the most dangerous Time to see it. A Beason built of Stone of which the rook itself will furnish, about 50 or 60 feet high, would render it of little danger; the Harbour is very convenient for naval Equipments from the Number of fino anchoring places and Islands, a very fino rendesvous for fleets and Transports in case of an expedition to the West Indies, as each division of men of wan-and Transports may have different places to wood and water in, and Islands enough for encampment and Refresh- ments of men, without any danger of desertion or Irregularity. The King's Dook yards might be supplied for many years with Sparrs from 27 inohoa and downwards to about hook span, Dooks may be easily made for Ships of the greatest Draught of Water. The above Island is about 30 miles coastways, and 90 miles in Circumference not including all its losser Islands within a Leaguo of its Shores, which are supposed to be included in the grant of it to Governor Beynard of Xassachusetta Bay by that Colony. *x. B. There are great Quantitys of Pease sufficient to feed immunerable Number of Herds and Cattle, a great Quantity of Cherries, both of which are natural to the Islands. "It obbs and flows in these Harbours 21 feet at Spring Tides, and about 15 or 16 feet at common tides, which never run so strong but a boat may be soulled against it. water 18 ever to be had in the dryest Seasons conveniently) the best anohoring ground in the world." Mount Desert Island -- l'Isle des Monts deserts was discovered and named by Champlain in September, 1604, when the deciduous trees among the characteristic pines and hem- locks of the Acadian coast were turning to red and gold. Then, all to the south as far as Florida was wild and forested to the water's edge, inhabited by the native Indians only. To France belongs the honor of the first colonization of America to the north of the Spanish. It was an undertaking broadly and nobly conceived by France's greatest king, Henry IV -- Henry of Navarre - warrior and statesman. His lieut- enant in this enterprise was a soldier of ancient family in southwestern France, Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, who, with his father, had followed him through the Religious Wars and whom - greatly trusting, Champlain tells us -- he had appointed governor of the ancient city of Pons in Saintonge, a city of refuge for the Huguenots. It was the Peace of Vervins, ending the long desolation of the Religious Wars, which released the energies that made such colonization of a wild and distant continent possible, and laid the first foundation for the magnificent development of America. De Monts was commissioned by the king, in noble words, to colonize and Christianize "the lands and territory of Acadia," a name that first appears in this commission though the king states it was already familiar to him from the ac- counts of fishermen and traders. He brought out with him Champlain -- most famous of French mariners and he it was who first among recorded white men set foot upon Mount Desert Island and explored its shores. Reaching first the coast of Nova Scotia, De Monts and Champlain sailed on into the Bay of Fundy and chose as site for their first colony of Acadia an island in the tidal mouth of what is now the Saint Croix River, named for it and now the commencement of the national boundary between the United States and Canada. While De Monts was establishing the Saint Croix colony he sent Champlain on a voyage of discovery westward, in an open, lateen-sailed vessel with a dozen sailors. Detained at first by fog, Champlain came finally in a single, long day's sail into sight of the Mount Desert Mountains, rising like a great beacon from the sea, and turned into Frenchmans Bay. 2 the Chole Ioland formed originally a single township, the township of Mount Desert. The principal settlements In It word Somesville and Southwest Harbor but scattered groupe were collected CO new settlers came around the virus harboro where coastal vessels could put In bring goods and load with lumber. One such w Northeast Barbor the sito of on early Indian cottlement; others on the cautom aldo of the Island WITH Saliabury Covo, Bully DOYS and Bar Harbor. After the and of the Grouch occupation in 1759, with the fall of Louisburg I Cape Broton and Quebee In the following way cottion from the Province of Xassachusetts Bay Camo gradually drifting down, approaching from the went and when deeds word dretto it was the western side of the bland toing toward Penobacot Bay that became, in 10801 description, the Island's front. As new settlers came, the towns were organised, the Town of Edon was laid out, defined by a line drawn Lor the head of otter Creek straight by the compass across the lakes and mountains to include the Island's restorn dido and the shore beyond it, nearly one half of the Island, Town meetings then word hold at Salisbury Covo, E control to the Town and this was the state of things when wo first came In 1868-69, when Bar Harbor, growing the Town offices word established there, not Without opposition, and Tota otings hold. From the realinder of the original township the fishing ao unities collected at Southwest Harbor, so planed from the cholter it efforded from southwest winds, and with not one And because of its prosperous fithing industries and extensive harbor Southwest Hardon became the obiof settlement of the Island, at which, when steamboat Lines card organised, the steamer touched bringing Straight and careting and loads of salted fish. That too was the state of things unt11 1868 when, with the growing summer visitor business the Portland.to Bootport coasting steamers first included Bar Herbor in their route. By land Mount Desert Illand was then reached by sta from Bangor with stops upon the way at the tavern by Phonlips Lake and at Ellsworth, the county seat, which it the CIES was a prosperous 1t bering industry, the sea reaching It for coastal Cob Onera, mill power provided by the above, and lunder available from:the:whole Union River Basine S. The Droup coperating Tount Desert Island from the Inland meat oroaned on horseback only when the Glad was out word crossed, from the early eighteenth contury on by 0 PLOKOGY wooden bridge, with a draw for cotling vessole and a toll taken, and this was not roplaced till aster the World War when the state took It OVER and a 0 memorial to those who COLL in the World Wash was built, ct the expense of Town and Countro The road over thing starting from the State capital at Augusto and passing along the Ioland's northorn Short through Salinbury COVO and House Covo to Bar Barbor where the Federal Government postoffice pr.5 and oustome house for the Ioland are established, contin- uos on th moo as 0 state highway nton through the Gorgo to otter Creek and Northeast Harbor where It ends, 10 the moat important road upon the Island, passing through Tto DID olpal Scomer resident commun- Itless wh built for motor traffic and much bued. It has two sections of great beauty upon it - the one where it orosses the Bluffs from Hulls Cove to Bar Harbor and the other where it turns with a bold sweep into the gorgo, at the outflow from the Terna Acadia, The first time the name Aoadia appears in record was in the commissions given to the Sieur de Monts by Henry IV of France, King of Nevarre originally and a Hugenot, and by his Lord High Admiral Du Cede Montmorence to come out and take possession in the name of France of the lands and territories 'pays et terri- toires' de l'Acadie' of which the King states he has he ard in accounts given him by returning fishermen and traders, That was in December 1603. The Sieur de Monts was a Hugenot, as had been, until he became King of France Henry the IV, when for reasons of political necessity if he were to become the King, he became a Catholic, the o hange doubtless did not seem to him important, liberty of conscience for his Hugenot followers did, and as King of France he was in position to obtain it for them. These commissions, dated from Paris in December 1603 were printed by de Monte a few years later when he was back in France, to show the privileges they granted him for trade and commeroe. He sailed out from Brest the following March, Champlain accompanying him, and landing firet on the coast of Nova Scotia explored in a smaller vessel which had accompanied him the Bay of Fundy, giving it the name Baie Franooise but by the Portugese fishermen afterward Bio Fundo, the Deep Bay, which name in the end prevailed. Acadia -2 While de Monts was establishing his first colony on an island in the tidal mouth of the Sainte Croix River he sent Champlain down in an open, lateen-sailed boat to explore the western coast, and after being held up for a few days by fog Champlain sailed down before a brisk north wind to Frenohmans Bay which he entered that same afternoon toward dusk, sailing on until he came to the Narrows where the bridge to the mainland is, where he nearly wreoked his boat upon a rook that was awash, and laning to repair her on the mainland shore saw that Mount Desert Island was an island. The next day he sailed back, to Hulls Cove apparently, where he saw smoke ascending from an encampment of Indiana with whom he endeavored to make friends which, with the aid of two friendly Indians he had brought with him from Sainte Crois, he did the following morning, directed by them he sailed around Mount Desert Island, the seaward way, and through the archipelago of sheltered waterways and islands to Penobsoot Bay, naming as he passed, the mountainous island that lay off it to the south L'isle a'Hault, then he proceeded up the long estuary of the Penobsoot to its first falls by the eite of the present oities of Brewer and Bangor, making friends with the Indians there, and thence returning to join the Sieur de Monts at Sainte Crotx, He gives in his journal, published at Brewt a few years later, a delightful account of the beauty of the river he sailed up which was clothed with heavy evergreen forests 3 Aoadia 03 on the western side down to the water's edge but on the opposite side was like a park with open spaces and deciduous trees, birches and maples doubtless in preponderance, tturned in the early fall to glorious color. The next account we have is that of two Jesuit fathers who conduoted an expedition equippped and sent out by a pious lady of the Court, King Henry now dead, slain in the streets of Paris during 8 procession, by a religious fanatic, and de Monte at his native home in Southwestern France, where King Henry had established him as Governor in the ancient oity of Pons in the Province of Santonge on the youthwestern coast of France, which King Henry described at the time, for its fertility and smiling landscape,as a pearl in the crown of France, and there he vanished from sight. The two Jesuit fathers after a stormy voyage sailed in the dusk and fog into Frenchmans Bay, believing it to be their goal, the entrance to Penobsoot River, then called the Norêmbegue, the name Penobacot belonging not to it but to the Indians who dwelt upon its banks. When the fog lifted in the morning and they found themselves in safety amid beautiful soenery they named their landfall and intended settlement, Saint Sauveur since only the hand of God could have brought them aoros8 the dangerous sea Acadia -4 in safety to a land BO fair. But presently Indians, settled at the eastern entrance to Somes Sound, where the village of North east Harbor is today, hearing of the coming of the Frenohman and having found Frenohmen friendly and good to trade with, sent a canoe around tobring them to their neighborhood, which they acoomplished diplomatically by telling the French fathers that their Chief Asticou was sick unto death and desirous of being taken into the Church. So they up-anchored and sailed around to find Asticou in good health but desirous of establishing them upon the opposite shore, where there was a fair southward sloping meadow then as now, which is still known as Jesuit Field. It was a lovely spot, well suited to their needs with shelter for shipping and good springs of water. So there they settled and began their work of establishing their colony, having brought with them goats and hseep and fowl, supplies of seed for sowing and agricultural implements. But while the work was still half done an English vessel, from the James River Colony in Virginia, who se Commander one Samuel Argall having heard of their establishment, sailed in, the Nations at peace at home, and commenced firing on the Nasoent Colony 88 BOON as he came within reach, killing some, others fleeing into the woods and the two Jesuit fathers, heads of the expedition being carried off by him 88 prisoners, to the James River settlement whenee they were dispatched to England and released. It is to them we owe, in Jesuit narratives, the full account of the whole 5 Acadia -5 expedition and its fate. This, Parkman the historian says, was the first act of overt warfare in a century and a half of battling between France and England, the French colonies and the English settlements, along the Atlantic co ast for the possession of America north of Mexico. Nothing more is heard of the Island of Mount Desert till grant of it, and of two square leagues upon the opposite mainland by the Narrows, was made by the Province of Quebeo to a soldier of fortune in Acadia, Antoine de la Mothe Cadillao, in a deed which is still on record in uebea and which was afterward con- firmed by a special grand, feudal in character, by Louis XIV which established him 88 seignior de Monts Desere and the adjacent lands, He seems to have built himself a home upon the Island shore on Frenchmans Bay, at Hulls Cove probably, being 80 listed in an ancient deed, but on his home being destroyed by a raid from the colony of Massachusetts Bay, he made his way across to Quebeo and placed himself under Frontenac, then Sovereign there, and made himself an imperishable place in history by establishing the oity of Detroit -the City of the Strait, d'Etroit--finally becoming Governor of Louisaiana, which then included the whole Massissippy valley from the Great Lakes south, which position he retained until he died, some four years later, Aoadia -6 In 1713 the result of upon the Continent due to the masterly generalship of the Duke of Marlborough, Louis XIV signed a paper called the Peace of Utreoht which ceded, for this was the war of the Spanish Suocessi on involving Spain as well as France, the great rook fortress of Gibralter to the English and in the same document the whole of Acadia, savehonly Cape Breton, but retaining the Saint Lawrence valley and what remained to France of Lou issana. a long period of battling and border warfare followed, the cession being one of name alone, until 1758 when Louisburg, the strong fortress, fell under a combined land seige by Colonial troops from the Province of Massao busetts Bay and the English bombarding and attacking from the sea. Some inoidents in that seige are worth recording in contract with the warefare of today, for their ohivalrous character in which men fought gallantly with men and left women and children alone. The following year Quebec itself was conquered in a battle on the Plains of Abraham above the City and peace thereafter, by English domination and the export of mal-contents among the Acadians to new home 8 in the wamplands of the Mississippi delta, and immigrants from the Province of Wassachusetts Bay began to come to Mount Desert Island. The island itself waa given in its entirety, save for a few squatters rights, by the Massao husetts Province to its last English overnor, Sir Franois Bernard, who ame down in 1763 to view his new possession, sailing in a Government vessel from Aoadia -7 Fort William in Boston Harbor and bringing with him 8 consider- able suite of surveyors and officers who explored the land, laid out the town of Southwest Harbor in lot 8 for sale andleft a description in Latin of the Island which in crabbed handwriting is now lodged in the library of Harvard University. Sir Franois Bernard records that there were then two settlers upon Some 8 Sound and four on the greater Cranberry Island, whish shows well the superior importanoe attached to 8 situation border- ing the open sea, the only highway then and main source of food supply, while the positions taken for settlement by the two settler: upon Some 8 Sound shows equally another aspect of their life, the trace in wood, both being established where streams of considerable size came down and mills could be established, the one settlement was by Some 8 where the water from Great Fond comes down with a good flow at its entrance on the sound; the other by Richardson where the water come s down from Aunt Betty's Pond, mills at both placeS having continued until within recent time. Governor Bernard was rowed up the Sound to make a visit on Somes who was there for his second season, and there now to stay having brought down with him his wife, a notably housewife, and four comely dau- ghters, whence he walked across to view the 'artificialness" of a beaver dam above the mill site on the stream flowing through intermediate basins from Great Pond. This was in 1763. Sir Franois Bernard, a lawyer traine d, 8. Aaadia -8 had been useful to the Massaohusettw Bay Colony in securing for it against the claims of Nova Sootia, that part of Eastern Maine once belonging to Acadia and now, owing to his activity in the United States, not Canada. It was in reward for this, designated as ediet inguished service' that the people of the Provime of Bay, represented by their Legislature, granted him the island of Mount Desert, but presently as the Revolutionary War approached, he lost his popularity with the Colonists and retired to England. The people when the Revolution came, taking back their gift and confiscating the stately mansion he had built himself upon Jamaioa Pond in Roxbury where a delegation from the State Legislature is represented as driving out in thirteen one-horse shays on an embassy whose he did not grant but entertained them kindly with oakes and wine. After the war was over Sir Franois Bernard's son, John Bernard, who had remained quietly in Maine during the Revolutionary war, came before the General Court of Maesaohusetts and petitioned it to renew to him its grant to his father of Mount DeBert Island, and the Court, in kindly feeling toward him, granted him not the whole but a one-half undivided possession in it. IL DHEMAR have been gue The first Adhymar said to be a relation of Charleme to is and by tradition, to have conquered Genoa and Corsica. There is descending from Asse an old Italian poem telling of the conquest of Corsica which bore the title Adhemaro, and makes this Adhemar its first sovereign. At all events, the family, a powerful one in early days in the lands be- tween the Rhone and sea part are still Histo-to from La Chesnaye Debbo1s termed terros franches "for on account Nipe g the greater of which (17 67) apparent of certain rights secured to them appropriating - issues from the Go- Gemmi thio times as powerful war-lordef with Montelimar as their capital residence, but!elsewhere also in that region in different branches Spouse mt Provence and Damphine were their provinces. Montelimar was in up where Unispase Said have sailed Conquest- Damphine, on the Rhone Avignon was not War away. It was the land of and its Roman occupation, enriohed by thoir remains. And it was the land where First found (moth the tot Crusade book its impulse. 1900 the account in Hare of u Pope Urban II speech and the warriors cry of 'Dieu le vent.' And note the must look up oppinal sources. The Count do Grignan who married Mme. de -2- in sain Sevigne's daughter gooms to have been the last of the race, and his where MO de Dunini stand month Tom oastle went down in ruins the Revolution. But the Montelimar my early or central branch seems to have come to an end early. Montelimar is from said the Latin to be Montiliam A - that Admari day, or Aymari part of being fenting which conoairably -Latin cognomen for northmen, ad-Mare, vince this tradition of of Canoa and Horsiua would Indicate au thoir origin, 60mkng up the Rhone afterward to ratd and finally to Bettro down upon was the rion ROMAN province that/in early times the wealthy and set- tled-part of Pranso. The name is apalt in the old doods both Athemar 7hr name and AZOMAT Indifferently. It appears in the old chronicles and his- tories of the borly time abundant1Jf Got La Cheenaye-Desbois heriod (states this.) only takes up one branch of it, not dwelling at Monteli- mar E that family being then, and long perhaps, extinoti) and begins late referring only in a few words to the earlier greatness of the Race. The de Mont s start apparently in the North, in what is Belgian Ground FLAmbert asheman / Digned its Charter of th City 8 Montelimer hr 7198 called th Mons Chartu because it was lugraud On a marble flab wh still effect h th Hotel di will of Montelima - buy Anddhema Win estab d due di Genoa by Smith . Charlemagn 1 But Bath Nobless d Provenci traces th filiation to thinton for Greand adhema, Comt of Orange, lims al th end of th 10th Century alamas, Birth R Pay Ctar brink in Crusad Kist gin dr Hist II 8.2 C Heat. d M.lifarn de Coston dissand adhim Squ di Syjne montal d 31 - Contina th oldn branch which from Thwn end 12th the becam Illinet thitt IA middly th 4th Centry His yourner Gu broth High Someon di higham to family Seeman his Seigneuris to the Umbradel becam oftened in the Centa Century Comi of Proven m/257, 16th but Win Contround m Children the grind Gashard di Castill one the whotook Jasiste Blande d' addinas, when man Memo r arms THE n adhim - The limit adhema who Sul- 4 I crimes the Ston Charter tom Absigmatic Marsulla agr of Monteil, Erigna Anbagn etc The Sament adhus into Sgr d la Gands : He daughter of Pm Drangs ( founder branch afterwall dam. ch - that- of newfdu Rhm EPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE, If LAFAYETTE NATIONAL PARK, C BAR HARBOR, MAINE. Atalian Party translation autum Gid ADDRESS ONLY THE DIRECTOR. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE WASHINGTON, D. O. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE WASHINGTON November 19, 1918. Dear Mr. Dorr: I am inclosing copies of two Italian publications, "Il Paroo Nazionale dell'Abrusso" and "Le Vie d'Italia", and of the hearing before the House Committee on Military Affairs of the Sixty-second Congress on the proposed Mammoth Cave National Park. Please return these pam- the frontive Z phlets to me when you have finished with them. Cordially yours, tneem alhigher Aoting Director. Mr. George B. Dorr, Custodian, Siour de Monts Nat. Monument, Bar Harbor, Maine. (Inclosure 4764.) recombor 18 the (bright) to oover the NO Champion www.rivon than Alta.cortain repotitions, other in extempo; of Looslity by vih nothing to any with this xogion. C: Ab they now I think An interesting statements Ger Brown M Horaoo Assistant PEASE Serviced PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION OF La Chenaya - Desbois Two motives have led us to re-publish the Dictionary of the Nobility of La Chenays-Desbois; its rarity and its utility. Its rarity is such that single copies have been sold in public sales for the sum of 1800 francs. Its utility is incon- testible. This Dictionary is in effect the "Nobil- iare", the most vast and the most complete that we possess not only in France but also in Europe. What labor, what researches, we may even say what courage, was needful to the Author of this Diction- ary to accomplish this great task, and what diffi- culties must have come to hinder it. La Chenays- Desbois lived in a time when, without care for the morrow, the Nobility, strong in its past never dreamed of ooming Revolution, bringing with it the destruction of deeds and titles, the burn- ing of Family charters. Accordingly, part of its 2. members made no response to the appeal of the Author, whose constant aim was to write his Genealogies only on documentary evidence that could not be overthrown. However, after the appearance of the first volumes of the second edition, this indifference ceased. Authentic documents flowed into the oabinet of the Heraldio Savant from every side. Nothing shows better than this movement the esteem attached from then on to the work of La Chenaya-Desbois. Schlesinger Frores. Paris, 1863. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION We propose to give in this Second Edition of the Dictionary of the Nobility the Genealogies of the Nobles by Race and the Nobles by Birth, af- ter Memoirs and papers that have been submitted to us for our examination, both those relating to Families which now exist and to others which have become extinot. It is idle to dwell upon the 3. importance of a work whose principal object is to give a faithful picture of the great Houses of France, and of those which have merited and received Nobility through service rendered to their Country and the State. Their History represents that of Heroism. It recalls the names of famous Warriors, of illustrious patriots who have fought for their Country and their Prince, of men who have served usefully in public work or have been honored for their gifts and virtues. One is eager to know these great men, those Noble Families that valor and fortune have raised above the people, to give them example of duty and of virtue. True Genealogies are as valuable to History as Maps are to Geography. The latter teach to identify the place; the former, the relative position of our Noble Families. What Science is more necessary to History than that of Genealogy? It is through it that men learn to distinguish ancient and illustrious Races from new Families. It is in recalling to those latter their prescribed limits that one preserves to the first the rank reserved to them. Accordingly, one sees that none but those whose ambition finds 4. itself checked by this Soience that exacts knowledge 80 wide that one may say there is none more difficult to acquire. Besides the origin and position of the ancient and illustrious Houses whose names are preserved in the records of our History and in its private memoirs, we find other Noble Families whose genealogies have never yet been published. The Genealogies which follow are all based on original documents submitted to us, or on momoirs of reliable character passed up- on by Judges in their own locality. Notes La Chesnays-Desbois makes a distinction in his Proface between the Nobles of Race and the Nobles of Birth, the latter being those who have been at any time enobled; while the Nobles of Race are those who have always possessed lands giving them Nobility. For them, title from some conferring source would destroy their Nobility. XVII Jean-Balthazar de Mons, Baron of Cabrerolles, father of the Sieur de Monts, founder of Acadia, paid homage to the King, Francois II, for the Seig- neurie of la Marcelliere and the Marquisate of la Marcillion. He served in the Army from his earliest youth, first as Ensign, then as Lieutenant-Captain of Arquebusiers, and in 1586 as Mestre de Camp with five hundred "Enseigns" under his command. He fought bravely in the battles of Saint Denis, November 10, 1567, and of Moncontour, October 3, 1569; was wounded at Coutras, October 20, 1587; bore himself bravely in the battle of Ivry; and was wounded again at the siego of Epernay in 1592, dying two years later of his wounds. He married on the 20th of May, 1572, Delphine de Latenay, daughter of the Noble Antoine, former Captain, and of Marguerite de la Mairie. Their children were: Jean Jacques, Seigneur de Cabrerolles, Marquis do la Marcelliere and Captain of a Company of Foot Soldiers, who married Anne-Mario de Mercouran. XVIII Balthazar, brother to the Sieur de Mons, Pierro du Guast, rendered homage to the King, Henry IV, in 1594, for the Marquisate of la Martois, the Lands of Autignac and la Marcillion, rendering homage for them again to Louis XIII in 1614 as Seigneur-foncier and Haut Justicier of the Lands and Seigneuries of la Caussade, Lentheric and others. He served in the army and became Captain of 100 Men at Arms and Governor of the Fortress of Aqua Pendente, being selected also by the Prince of Conde, who ruled the Province, to lead the Noble Host of the Ban and Arriere-Ban on account of his ability and great merits. He married in 1592 Jeanne Marie-Anne do Latenay, a relative on his mother's side. They made a joint will on the 9th of April, 1620, naming their children, and died that same year, being buried in a tomb he had built himself in the Church of Autignac. The children of Balthazar were Jean Jaoques, who, having served in the Marine, entered, with the King's permission, the service of Her 2. C Royal Highness Christine of France, Duchess of Savoy, who gave him a Commission, drawn in Latin, to command two vessels. Balthasar, who follows. Blaise, who was received in 1601, when yet in his oradle, as a Chevalier de Malte. Louis, received also in his infancy as a Chevalier do Malte, but who quitted the Order to marry, contrary to the will of his father, who disinherited him. He served in the Regiment of Allot as Lieutenant, in that of Saint Just as Captain of 100 Lances. He married the Noble Gabrielle de Feroul, Mar- quise do Saint-Sernin, niece of Gabriel do Foroul, Chevalier do St. Jean de Jerusalem, who made a will in her favor, 13th April, 1629. XIX Balthazar de Mons, second of the name, nephew of the Sieur do Monts of Acadia, paid homage to Louis XIII for the estate of Saint Aunes and the fief of Magelas in 1623, which came to him by his father's will. He served "from his tenderest youth" in the Regiment of Mirepoix, was Captain in that of la Bastido, then Captain of 100 lances each "lance" representing half a dozen men of various equipment - rebelled with his brothers, taking the part of the gallant Duo de Montmorency, beheaded by Richlieu, but none the less, having made his submission to the Kind, was appointed by him Mestro do Camp and freed from all tax or charge upon his property, "1n recognition", said the Prince, "of his services and those of his ancestors, and for the high esteem in which I hold him." In 1641 he was selected by this Monarch to be Under-Governor of his son, the future Louis XIV. He married on May 21, 1645, Jeanne de Fabry, daughter of the Noble Jean de Fabry, Chevalier, and of Catherine de Gout. They had eleven sons who all entered the Army, serving "from the Cradle." 2. The eldest of these sons, Antoine, was killed in Italy, Lieutenant in the Regiment of Normandy. Balthazar, the second son, entered the Regiment of Picardy in 1672 in the capacity of Lieutenant, passed through all grades and followed King James to Iroland. On his return to France he was made Lieutenant-Colonel of the Regiment of Michel Croat, was placed at the head of the Regiment of Berwick and made Brigadier in 1690, Chevalier de Saint Louis in 1696, and was killed at the head of his Regiment in the battle of Cassano on the 16th of August, 1705. He was so highly esteemed by his brother officers that they composed the following epitaph in his honor: Voila les restos de ce guerrier, Dont la valeur si distinguee Do plusieurs Rois de sur la terre S'est faito couronnee de laurier, Depuis longtoms par son epee Que la mort a su mettre a bas Par les souffrances de la guerre. Craignons la tous tant que nous sommes, Elle pout bion s'on prendre aux hommes Puisqu'elle a mis do Monts a bas. 3. The third son was Louis, who served in the Regiment of Allot, in which he became Captain in 1688, the 13th of April; then entered that of la Tour la Bastide as Lieu- tenant-Colonel, and was killed in Italy. The fourth son, Francois, served in the Regiment of Vivonno as Captain of Grenadiers, appointed in 1689, and was killed in Italy. The fifth son, Jean-Francois, received as Chevalier do Malto in 1667 was killed in Italy as Captain of Gren- adiers, being appointed in 1688, the 13th of April. The sixth son, Etienne, served in the Regiment of Navarro, in which he was Captain of Grenadiers, but an affair of honor obliged him to expatriate himself. He went to Russia, where he was made Chamberlain of the Cear, Peter I, and became by his wit and striking figure one of his favorites. He married there and left a daugh- ter who married the Seignour de Balley, Chamberlain of the Emperor. Another son, the seventh, was made Knight of Malta in 1670, and retired from the service when Lieutenant in the Regiment of Piedmont. The eighth son, Joseph, became a Knight of Malta in 1671. He entered the Regiment of Ploardy in 1672, was 4. made Captain of Dragoons in 1680, was mortally wounded in Italy and made his will in Latin on the 28th of April, 1690. The ninth son, Alexandre, continued the Family. The tenth son was Jean Jaoques, who entered the Marine, passed through all grades, was made Captain of a Ship of War, and commanded the right wing in the naval battle which the Count of Toulouse gave in 1705, and in that which the same Prince gave subsequently near Malaga. The eleventh son, Aphrodise, became Lioutenant of Granadiers in the Regiment of Picardy in 1674 and died two years later. XX Alexandre Joseph do Mons, Chevalier, born on the 5th of February, 1651, entering the Church was surnamed 'do la Capelliere', but later quitted the tonsure to embrace the profession of Arms. He be- gan as Lieutenant in the Regiment of Champagno in 1674, was appointed Captain of Grenadiers in 1689, Commandant of Batallion in 1703, Chevalier de Saint Louis in 1705, was made Lieutenant-Colonel six months later, and in 1711 Brigadier of the Armies of the King. Appointed in 1714 Governor of Perpignan, he died in Paris in June, 1714, from the re-opening of old wounds, and was buried at Saint-Eustache. The record of his services tolls that ho was present at nine- teen sieges, seven battles and twenty lesser on- gagements, in which he was several times wounded -- his worse wounds being from a ooup de fou! at the battle of Floury and a 'coup de pistole! at that of Ramillies, where he was left as dead upon the field. He was pensioned "in recompense for noble actions in the wars and services reported to the King", as certifi- cates set forth given by the Marshals of Villars and of The river Chiers, which still bears its an- oient name, rises in France not far from the Bel- gian frontier and joins the Meuse a few miles from Sedan. Mons -- in Flemish Bergen -- the capital of the County of Hainault from the 10th century on, was founded by the Countess Waudru as a holy shrine and abbey in the depth of the vast forest of Ar- donnes. Built over deep beds of coal, Mons, home seat in the middle ages of a "poor, proud people", is now the wealthy center of a great coal-mining industry. One of the earliest titles of honor in France, now only used for royalty, was Sire, from the Latin Senior, Elder, which gave rise also to Sieur and Seignour. One of the proudest and most powerful Houses in Northern France in the middle ages, that of Coucy, had for its motto: Roi ne suys No prince, ne duc, 2. No Comte aussi. Jo suys 10 Sire de Coucy, and the Sires do Pons bore it as a title in the South with equal pride. In 1095, the year before this will was made, there had been a great and famous gathering at the old oity of Clermont, the Latin, Clarus Mons, in the mountain region of Auvergne. Pope Urban II came and delivered an impassioned speech calling on the knights and people of the West to rescue the Holy Sepulohre from the Infidels. As he finished, the gathered warriors clashed their arms and shouted 'Dou le volt' -- 'God wills it', and putting on cross-marked mantels, prepared in advance, pledged themselves to the resoue of the sacred shrine. The great leaders in the First Crusado were Raymond, Count of Toulouse, a Sovereign Prince and the most powerful war-lord in the south, and the Adhomars of Montelimar, sovereign princes also and great lords. The army that they led, splendidly 3. equipped, was formed of the nobility of that southern land, wealthy and cultured in comparison with the ruder north. THE HOUSE OF DE MONTS OR MONS The House of do Monta or Mons is as illus- trious as old; it prides itself on having served our Kings and the States since the most remote centuries in military employs. It has contributed Viceroys, Ambassadors, Generals, Governors of Pro- vinces and Cities, Prelates, Heads of Orders and Knights of Malta. The historians of Savoy, of Languedoo and of Dauphine make mention of them. I The line of descent followed by this family goes back to Rodolphe de Mons, son of Ragnier, Count of Mons, Hainault and Brabant, who is on record as taken with his two nephews by the King Lothair in a castle on the banks of the river Chiers that Ragnier, his father, had seized from Lord Ursion in 956. His lands were confiscated and added to the royal domain. 2. Rodolpho do Mons was killed in the siego of Luxembourg, leaving -- his widow -- the Countess, Adelaide, of an anoient Family of Vionno in Bur- gundy, and a son, Gosvin de Mons. II Gosvin do Mons is recorded in a dood of the year 997 where he is referred to as son of the "Magnifique et Puissant Homme; Rodolphe, Comte de Mons." His son Gosvin, second of the name, married Jeanne-Imengardo, who appears with him in a joint will leaving their property to their two younger sons, Alexandro and Izoard, in the event that their four other sons, Hugues, Philippe, Lambert and Gir- audonnet failed to return from their voyage d'Outre- mer, -- Beyond the Sea -- the First Crusade. This deed is of the year 1096. III Philippo, one of the four sons mentioned in this deed, lived, on his return from the Crusade, 3. upon an estate given him in feudal tenure by Giraud and Giraudonnet Adhemar of Montelimar. This Act, of the 21st September, 1099, recites that Hugues de Mons, having distinguished himself with his brothers in the Holy Land under Giraud and Giraudonnet Adhemar, Sov- ereign Lords of Montelimar and its lands, in Valdog- nie, Province of Dauphine, these Lords gave in fief the estate of. Saint Georges-do-Lene, in Savasse, to Philippo do Mons, for the benefit also of his brother, Hugues, in recompense for their praise-worthy (louable) services in the Holy Land, where two brothers perished in the siego and capture of Jerusalem; and for having saved the life of Giraud Adhemar on the day of Holy Friday (July 15, 1099) in the storming of the city. 2. Pierro, Sieur de Monta and Seigneur du Guast, the founder of Acadia under a Commission as viceroy given him by the King, Henry IV, and dated, at Paris, December, 1603. A Huguenot soldier, he served under Henry of Navarro and had been appointed by him Gov- ernor of Pons, an ancient city of Saintongo in south western France, which had been established by Henry on becoming King of France, as a place of security for Huguenots. Balthasar, who follows. Jaoques, the fourth son, and Jean, the fifth, both became Chevaliers do Malto; Jean, received in 1592, being entered on the Order's roll as le Chevalier do Guast.